We've arrived in Tanger

I think flying has become so commonplace, that we don't really feel the transition or movement from one continent to another...you get into a metal tube, and 8+ haggard and exhausted hours and you are on new ground. It seems very different, however, traveling by ship....maybe it's just the "romance" of it that has me feeling this way, or maybe it's that you actually see one strip of land disappear, and the other arise out of the ocean on the horizon.

The crossing was very exciting for all of us. I had first been to Morocco exactly 9 years and 1 day prior, with a thirst to return ever since. Haim's parent's were both born here, so this was in a way a homecoming for him...and due to the challenge of obtaining a visa for him, not to mention buying a car in Spain, he doubted that we would actually be able to make the journey. Maya was simply tickled that our car was going to ride on a big boat!

We got to the port about 80 minutes early, just to make sure that we could clear customs without any hitches or surprises...which we did. It basically took more time to wait...line for customs, loading, unloading, and more lines for customs...than the actual transit, which was about 35 minutes!

The day was wet and windy, so no blue horizons for us, but it was quite beautiful nonetheless. Immediately upon leaving our car and entering the passenger lounge of the boat, we got in line for passport control, which is wisely done while in transit. Thus, our passport was stamped before we even pulled away from the dock. As we set underway, Haim, Maya and I went to the blustery deck to say our farewell to Spain. I soon grew cold and returned inside for a snack, but Haim and Maya stayed outside enjoying the wind and view for quite a while. It is really lovely to see their relationship grow and deepen with each passing day. She seeks him out for many special activities like play grounds, movies, and pretty much anything "fun." No doubt she loves me, but these days I am pretty much a source of milk, kisses for boo-boos, night-time cuddles and potty-breaks.

Upon arrival to the port, we disembarked drove our car to through the exit line, the only remaining task was to have the car clear customs. This was fairly easy, with the help of several nominal tips for some people who helped us prepare paperwork. The only hitch was that since I had never entered Morocco with my current passport (and the car title is in my name) i had to leave Haim and Maya in line with the car while I walked into the National Police office in the port to have my passport registered...somehow different than the stamp which i had already obtained. Nonetheless, a minor affair and we were done. A quick money change (traveler's checks were attempted, but we were informed that they could only be changed in the city proper) just outside the port and we were off to find a hotel.

We had chosen a hotel from the guide book based (we're using Rough Guides) on the fact that it was easy to find, just outside the port, and reported to have secure parking. However, driving past the hotel we decided that it really was TOO close to the port, and since it was still early in the day we decided to try our luck with some other (parking unknown) places first. We decided upon Pension Hollande, as it seemed like an easy to find location, and was in the right price range....the cheapest of the moderately priced hotels. While trying to locate it, we did get pretty lost, mostly because the streets that do have signs (and not all do) have them in on tiny ceramic or metal plates attached to buildings.

We asked a couple of taxi drivers in a fr-span-glish mix for the french consulate, which the hotel is next to, and they all tried to set us in the right direction, but to no avail. Next we stopped several different people on the street, whom, not understanding us, offered friendly and apologetic shrugs and smiles. Finally we asked two women (maybe mother and daughter) who were walking down the street. The elder, who was probably Haim's age, asked if there was room in the car, and they got in and navigated us right there! We never would have made it without them...well, maybe we would have, but they definitely saved us several very frustrated hours!

We located our hotel, and old house on the side of consulate, and pulled into a large, gated yard....perfect parking. I got out to have a look at the room, and was shown a large, light filled, simple and COLD room, with (necessary) ample blankets and it's own bathroom. We took the room, and settled in for a short nap before venturing out to exchange some traveler's checks, and attempt to secure a mobile phone number and a mobile internet connection. Previous inquiries with the Morocco Couch Surfing Group had informed me that Wana was the best mobile internet connection, but that Maroc Telecom offered the best mobile phone service.

We easily located a Wana office, several blocks from our hotel, and within 30 minutes we were purchasing the internet service...a USB modem and 200 DH (about $24) monthly unlimited service. In Spain we tried for 4 weeks to obtain a similar service and finally gave up! Go figure. In any case, we were purchasing the equipment, and were informed that only cash was accepted. Since we had only changed 50 E before, and had used about half of that for the hotel, we needed to change money again. Haim went out to change a travelers check while I finished up some paperwork. 4 unsuccessful banks later, we realized that we would need to return to the hotel for either euros or an ATM card, and that cashing travelers checks might be a project....

Shortly we had returned with cash from an ATM and our purchase was completed. We had a small sandwich in a corner store...juicy roasted chicken, salads, and french fries in crusty bread, and were ready to continue on our way looking for a phone. We didn't get far however, before it started to rain and we realized that some mint tea was much preferable to walking in the rain. We stopped across from a bank, BMCE, which I ran in to while we waited for our tea to arrive. Success! We changed our traveler's checks and had delicious tea!

Next we easily obtained a phone number and returned to the hotel where Maya napped and we regrouped for dinner. One thing that we noticed while walking the streets is that EVERYONE was so friendly. Anyone who noticed our confusion if we were looking for directions attempted to help, and most people we passed and a kiss or smile for Maya.

Dinner was simply a passable affair, we mistakenly stumbled into a tourist restaurant with mediocre, overpriced food, but at least some nice music which Maya was completely transfixed by. She charmed the musician with her dancing and her name, which translates as water..a very strong name here.
After a good nights sleep huddled together under our many blankets (the ambient temperature in the room was QUITE chilly) we awoke at our usual lazy hour of 9am (with Maya sleeping until 11), and set out around noon for "breakfast" which we had in a nearby cafe...3 mildly sweet, fluffy pastries, tea and coffee for about $2.50 total. We then wandered around a souk outside of the Medina which had a mixture of food, household goods, clothing, and even the odd animal. The smells, sighs and sounds were as intoxicating and alluring as expected. We made our way to the media to a chicken stall that we had spied after our dinner the prior night...and wished we had eaten at, and had a simple and delicious lunch before a bit more wandering and retiring for an afternoon nap. Thus, we have spent and exciting and lovely first day in Morocco and a now we are off to dinner!